Archive for the ‘Hat History’ Category

Hat History

Monday, June 23rd, 2008

In the June issue of Accessories Magazine there’s a great timeline of hat milestones through the last 200 years. I thought I’d share some of those with you today.

1797: The top hat makes its debut in London.
1900’s: Women wear some of the largest hats in history - a sign of wealth and status.
1920’s: “The decade of the hat.” Women’s styles go from large statement pieces to small cloches. To wear a cloche correctly, it must be pulled over the eyes, making the wearer lift up the head to see.
1930’s: The bowler becomes a symbol during the Industrial Revolution, representing the modern middle class.
1930’s to 1945: The key hat of this period is the fedora, which is frequently worn tipped down over one eye.
1950’s: Hats are a must-have for women who want to achieve a perfectly polished, ladylike look.
1960’s: First lady Jacqueline Kennedy’s pillbox hat becomes her personal trademark, and gains fame worldwide.
1970’s: Floppy hats stand out as a key style of the times.
1980’s: Diana, Princes of wales, uses hats to achieve a color-coordinated look with her apparel, and is beloved as a fashion icon.

Do your part for history and get a hat on.

Aaron

Ladies Tilley Hats

Tuesday, May 20th, 2008

Back in stock…the ladies Tilley Hemp Hat. The TH8 Hemp Hat is specifically designed for women.
The TH8 Hemp Hat is, indeed, elegant yet hard-working. Can be worn brim up all the way or jauntily tipped to set the tone for any occasion. Add your personal panache with a scarf, vibrant hat band or eye-catching pin. The all-around wide brim offers a lifetime investment in sun protection and style. And best of all…it comes in multiple sizes. We frequently hear from women who need a small or extra large hat size that they just can’t find anything to fit. Once we show them the Tilley TH8 they fall in love with it.

Tilley TH8 Hat
Tilley Women’s TH8 Hat

Get ‘em while they’re hot…or rather before it gets too hot.

Aaron

Manny’s Millinery Closing

Monday, January 14th, 2008

I was truly sad to hear that at the end of this month Manny’s Millinery Supply will be closing their doors for good. This doesn’t hurt our immediate business since we don’t custom make hats but I don’t like hearing of any small business closing, especially one in the headwear industry. You can read the entire story at HatLife.com.

I don’t know where all the milliners will go to get their supplies but I certainly hope there will be somebody out there to pick up where Manny’s left off.

Aaron

Kangaroo Felt Hats

Sunday, January 13th, 2008

Felt hats are made out of either wool or fur. Fur felt being the better option due to it’s feel and how it holds up better to the elements. For this reason it is generally more desirable among many consumers.

Decades ago most hat manufacturers used mostly beaver fur for their felt hats. As the raw beaver fur became more and more expensive the manufacturers started using more rabbit and wild hare and less beaver in the hats. These manufacturers kept their blends or recipes a highly regarded secret and still do to this day. In the last 18-24 months the price of the raw rabbit fur has gone through the roof due to the Chinese clothing manufacturers using more real fur. For this reason, RHE Hatco who makes hats for Stetson, Resistol, Dobbs, Charlie 1 Horse and Cavanagh has experimented with different kinds of fur. A couple years ago they started using Buffalo fur and continue to make select styles using Buffalo. The Buffalo fur is better than wool but still not quite as nice as the beaver and rabbit fur hats. This actually turned out to be good because it created a price point in retail that was missing. Previously you could spend $50 on a wool felt hat or $150+ for a rabbit fur felt hat. Buffalo fits right in the middle of that floating right around $100. This year the Stetson brand has introduced a few fur felt hats made of Kangaroo fur. They will be priced similarly to the Buffalo felt hats but I have yet to see and touch one to get a real sense of the quality of the felt. Once I get one in my hands I’ll be sure to right a review here so stay tuned.

Here’s one of the new styles called the Stetson Amaroo:

Stetson Amaroo Cowboy Hat

You can tell all your friends you heard it here first.

Gidde up ‘Roo,

Aaron

Hat Etiquette

Tuesday, November 20th, 2007

I’ve been reading a lot about hat etiquette lately and frequently have customers ask about etiquette when they’re buying their hat. Here are a few sample questions I get regularly:

Do I take my hat off in an elevator?
When I tip my hat do I grab it by the crown or the brim?
Do I remove my hat when in a restaurant? What about if I’m sitting at the bar?
Should I tip my hat to every woman I pass walking down the street?

If you still want to follow very strict hat etiquette as dictated by Emily Post then you better do some research because there’s a lot to learn. For me personally, here’s what I do. I rarely, if ever, tip my hat. In a restaurant I’ll take my hat off if sitting at a table. If I’m at the bar and there’s an open seat next to me I’ll remove my hat otherwise it stays on. Taking my hat off I use both the crown and the brim depending on which hat I’m wearing. In any indoor public area I keep my hat on, once I enter a private area I’ll remove my hat.

In the end, here’s what I tell my customers. Do what feels right to you and if in doubt remove your hat. Nobody is going to give you a hard time about being too polite.

Get a hat on,

Aaron

The Newsboy

Monday, November 19th, 2007

While searching the internet for information about Newsboy Caps I came across this great article about the Newsboy profession at www.peachtree-online.com/printer/newsboys.htm.

I hope you’ll find it as interesting as I did:

If you want to buy the latest edition of a newspaper, where do you usually purchase the paper? Do you go to a local bookstore, a nearby gas station, or the neighborhood grocery store? Or do you simply bypass the paper edition and read the day’s news on the Internet? Our access to newspapers is convenient, and with online newspapers, we don’t even have to leave our homes.

A century ago, however, newspaper access was a far different story. The Internet did not exist and in many major cities, many newspaper readers purchased daily editions from newsboys. The newsboy occupation existed from the late 1800s, through the early twentieth century and even into the 1940s (the time period for The Printer). The job of hawking newspapers to passer-bys was not an easy job, and many poor, homeless children competed for the meager money that could be gained from the position.

First, a little background about America during the late 1800s: immigration into the United States was at an all-time high, and poverty was everywhere. Many immigrants traveled to America from countries with horrible living conditions; shelter, food, and clean water were a rarity, and many immigrants became sick during the passage to the United States. In many cases, parents died enroute, leaving their children homeless and without a source of income.

When the immigrants arrived, adults and children alike searched for jobs and living quarters. Around this time, the American newspaper industry began to boom, and newspapers required cheap workers to distribute daily editions. A New York paper, The New York Sun, was the first newspaper to hire newsboys to sells papers on the streets of the busy city. Soon, other papers followed suit and the newsboy career path bloomed.

The life of a newsboy was tough: in many cases, these boys and girls (yes, girls sold papers too!) needed to sell papers in order to buy food and survive. Some newsboys were as young as six years old, while others were teenaged at fourteen or fifteen. Because many of them had to sell papers from the early morning until late evening in order to earn money for food, most newsboys did not attend school. Many were orphans, living on the street, and fellow newsboys formed their families.

Not all newsboys were parentless, though. Some did have families and homes, but the lure of hanging out on busy streets with fellow friends–and the excitement that often accompanied the newsboy profession–drew boys to the work. Sometimes, newsboys came from broken homes and the parents failed to track their children’s whereabouts. Eventually, the newsboy might abandon his family and adopt a new family of fellow newsboys.

A newsboy’s day began very early, usually before sunrise. A New York newsboy made his way to Printing House Square, an area in the city that housed the city’s major newspapers. Printing House Square was two blocks east of the future World Trade Center site, and most newsboys referred to the area as “Newspaper Row.” Newspaper Row served as the newsboy headquarters, where the children gathered to wait for the day’s newspaper bundles.

Within a matter of minutes, newspaper dealers began to distribute “hot off the press” bundles to the waiting newsboy crowd. The children had to pay for the stack of newspapers up front, before they sold any copies, and lost money on any of the papers they did not sell that day. Soon, the newsboys hit the streets, often positioning themselves at busy intersections and well-traveled corners where many pedestrians passed on their way to work. Because they were under pressure to sell as many papers as possible in order to earn money, the newsboys sold very aggressively, forcing the papers in pedestrians’ faces and shouting the day’s headlines to the crowds.

Life as a newsboy was very hard. Imagine living on the streets, working on blazing summer days and freezing winter mornings just to earn money for a meager bit of food. Few had parents, and if a newsboy became ill, he likely did not have enough money to see a doctor, much less buy food.

A kindly New York catholic priest, Father John Drumgoole, witnessed the hard lives of the city’s newsboys and decided to help. Born in 1816 in Ireland, the priest grew up in poverty and understood the challenges faced by the New York newsboys. In 1871, the Church named him Chaplain of a homeless boys shelter called the St. Vincent’s Newsboys’ home. The shelter was an old warehouse situated only a few blocks from Newspaper Row, and Father Drumgoole worked hard to let the newsboys know about the shelter. He posted fliers and searched for the homeless children in dark alleyways and under bridges-area where newsboys often lived when not selling papers.

Accepting only boys, the Father Drumgoole’s shelter offered evening school classes and safe lodging for a small fee, with free dinner on Sundays. Soon the shelter was filled to capacity, and Father Drumgoole purchased land and built a ten-story shelter at the corner of New York’s Great Jones and Lafayette streets. The new shelter housed 500 boys. Next, the priest bought a 600-acre farm on Staten Island. Today, Staten Island is filled with houses, buildings, and people, but the area was farmland in the late 1800s.

Named Mount Loretto, the farm was huge and operated completely by former newsboys. The children plowed fields, grew huge crops, raised chickens, milked cows, cared for horses, and made their own clothes and shoes. Soon, the Mount Loretto farm was the most productive farm on Staten Island. Father Drumgoole died in 1888, but his legacy continued as the shelter and farm continued to operate into the twentieth century. Sold in 1961, the Mount Loretto cowherd represented the last cows in New York City.

Back in 1871, when Father Drumgoole first established his shelter, newsboys lucky enough to secure a spot at the shelter received lodging, food, and education. Unfortunately, the shelter could only house a limited number of children, and hundreds of newsboys continued to live on the streets. By 1899, the situation was dire.

For years, newspaper publishers had steadily raised the price on the newspaper bundles bought by newsboys. In 1898 the United States entered the Spanish-American War. During the months of the war, newspaper readers gobbled up the day’s papers and newspaper publishers raised the price of a newsboy’s daily paper bundle from 50 to sixty cents. By 1899, the War was over and fewer readers bought daily newspapers; however, the price for a newsboy’s daily bundle remained high at the wartime rate of sixty cents.

Here’s the situation: a newsboy bought a bundle of 100 papers for 60 cents. In order to break even, the newsboy had to sell at least 60 papers that day. But during the months after Spanish-American War ended, newspaper readership dropped and newsboys were lucky to sell 30 or 40 papers. Therefore, the child lost 20 or 30 cents that day. If the newsboy were lucky enough to sell the entire 100-paper stack, he only made a profit of 40 cents-which just covered past days when he likely lost money.

Newsboys were losing money hand over fist, and something had to be done. In July 1899, the newsboys decided to strike against The Evening World and The Evening Journal. They aimed to either put the two massive newspapers out of business or strike a deal in which they would not lose so much money. The New York newsboys worked together and held rallies to publicize their cause; rival newspapers covered the rallies and supported the newsboys’ cause.

In the end, the 1899 newsboy strike lasted little more than a week, but the outcome was successful. The newspaper publishers and newsboys compromised: the 100-paper bundles still sold for 60 cents each, but the newspapers bought back any unsold papers from the newsboys. Soon, other child workers followed the example of the New York newsboys by striking against adult employers. Newsboys in Chicago, Boston, and Pittsburgh held strikes, as did messenger boys in New York and Pittsburgh.

Not all the strikes were as successful as the original New York newsboy strike, but the series of walkouts brought attention to the plight of child laborers in America’s cities. Within a few years, the United States government passed laws that protected child workers and set standards for the treatment of the country’s children.

How To Open A Hat Store

Thursday, November 8th, 2007

From time to time I have somebody ask me how I started a hat store from just an idea. Sometimes they’re asking because they’re just curious and other times they’re asking because they want to open their own hat store. My first answer is always “a lot of hard work”. From the time we decided to open a hat store and the day we opened our doors was about three months. It was three months of a lot of research and deciding which brands to stock. One problem we had was that salespeople didn’t want to come and see us in person. I guess they didn’t take us too seriously. In fact, a lot of people (our families included) thought we were nuts when we said we wanted to open a hat store. Why would we want to open a hat store when nobody wears hats anymore? What a joke that sentence is. There was only one salesman that took the time to come visit us and that was our rep that handled the Resistol, Dobbs and Stetson hats. Since only one salesman came to see us we stocked for opening day strictly by looking at catalogs and web sites. Some of the first hat brands we carried include Stetson, Dobbs, Henschel Leather, Betmar, Tilley Endurables, Biltmore and Elope. Today, we still carry most of these brands and have added many more.

All this may sound a little too easy but rest assured it wasn’t. We worked seven days a week for well over a year and there were some manufacturers that didn’t want to deal with us. It took us over a year to be able to sell Kangol Hats, to find a supplier of hat cleaning accessories and to find such name brands as Dorfman Pacific, Bailey Hats and New Era Caps. On top of all that there are people in the headwear industry that will tell you incorrect information, or nothing at all, for their own personal gain or to keep you from finding a competitor of theirs. I won’t name names here but this one person in particular is still doing this today with other unknowing people.

Aaron Hats has come a long way since that first day about 4 1/2 years ago. We’ve become better business people, become better buyers, a little more skeptical sometimes but overall it’s been fun.

Check out our original store location with just 600 square feet.

Aaron Hats store

Now look at us today.

Aaron Hats Hat Store

So if you want to open a hat store and work seven days a week please do. The more hat stores the better as far as I’m concerned.

Get a hat on,

Aaron

My Favorite Fedora

Thursday, October 18th, 2007

The Fedora continues to become increasingly more popular. The great thing about fedoras are the variety of brim widths, materials, colors and hat bands. You can choose a 1 1/2″ stingy brim fedora all the way up to a 3″ wide brimmed fedora. Anything wider than that I think starts to look more western/cowboy no matter how you style it. You can choose from wool felt, fur felt or even 100% beaver felt and the prices can vary as much as the personalities that wear the fedora hats.

My favorite fedora from last year is the Stetson Gaylord in a nice olive color:

Stetson Gaylord

For some great history and information about fedoras check out The Hat Site.

Here are some great examples of the variety of fedora styles to choose from:

Akubra CEODobbs AegeanStetson Windham

Let’s “hat up” and hit the town,

Aaron

Benefits of Stetson Hats - Part 2

Monday, June 18th, 2007

Continuing with the topic of employee benefits let’s take a look at some more benefits the employees of the John B. Stetson company enjoyed.

Again taken from the book “Stetson Hats and the John B. Stetson Company 1865-1970”:

“At the 1920 (Christmas) party, workers received ten percent of their annual salaries as bonuses. Turkeys were given to married men, hats to bachelors, and gloves and candies for the women employed by the firm. Also included among the gifts were 425 shares in the Stetson Building and Loan Association, 75 shares of common stock, and 5 life insurance polices worth $5,000 each. The total value in gifts given that year was $525,000.”

and

“All of these efforts strengthened the bonds between Stetson and his employees, creating a loyal, efficient work force, and ensuring stability among a traditionally wandering community. Stetson’s programs were continued by his successor, J. Howell Cummings (company president from 1906-1928).”

I don’t know about you but I can’t help but admire a man who took such a personal interest in his employees and gave them things that no other employer was doing at the time.

Cheers to John B. Stetson.

Aaron

Benefits of Stetson Hats

Thursday, June 7th, 2007

This may seem like a stretch for some people but have you ever considered that you owe your current employee benefits to John B Stetson and the Stetson Hat Company of a hundred years ago?

According to the book “Stetson Hats and the John B. Stetson Company, 1865-1970”:

“He (John B. Stetson) took a paternalistic interest in the welfare of his employees, initiating a variety of company services from health care, education, and recreation, to banking, housing and religious services. Stetson was motivated by deep Baptist religious convictions, a strong philanthropic conscience, and a certainty that satisfied workers would be more productive. Employee benefits reduced labor turnover, attracted a higher caliber work force, and therefore increased the company’s profits.”

and

“As the years passed, new services and programs continued to be added by Stetson. One of the most significant was the Union Mission Hospital, founded in 1887. Built next to the factory at 1745 North 4th Street, this facility was built in part because of Stetson’s own preoccupation with health and from his habit of referring sick employees to his own personal physician.”

These are just a couple of examples of today’s “employee benefits” initiated by John B. Stetson in the late 19th and early 20th century. Over the next few days we’ll explore what other benefits Mr. Stetson bestowed upon his employees.

‘Til next time, keep your chin up and your hat on.

Aaron